There's not much point in complaining about high-tech barbecue. It serves a purpose, and it's here to stay. And no doubt the quality of it will keep on improving. But as the old barbecue joints slowly disappear, each one that remains becomes a bigger treasure.

— Robb Walsh

The Art of Smoke, originally published in The Houston Press

bkarau's Review of Country Tavern

  • Atmosphere: Simple red corrugated siding and a nice awning. Liquor store next door. Cool and dark inside with pool table and country music. Looks more like a beer joint than a BBQ joint. Great pictures including Earl, Miss Texas, and Bush 41. Cloth napkins a downer.
  • Spare Rib: Sweet with brown sugar. Tender, falling off bone.
  • Beef: Strange cut, along the grain. Drowned in sauce. Tender but mushy - like a roast.
  • Potato Salad: Very heavy on mustard and kind of dry.
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